Discover the secret coves of Costa Brava

Described by journalist Ferran Agulló as “brave and smiling, fantastic and sweet, worked by the storms at the blow of waves like a high relief and embroidered by the kisses of the bonanza”, the Costa Brava offers much more than meets the eye. Take a step back from traditional tourist spots and discover some of the area’s most remote coves that have inspired paintings, literary works, films and fashion from the world’s most renowned artists.

Empordà poet Carles Fages de Climent describes the pairing of mythology and landscape in his poem El Somni de Cap de Creus (The Dream of Cap de Creus). This pairing is the perfect way to define the wild, captivating landscape of Cap de Creus. This remote location is home to treasured coves such as Cala Jugadora – renowned for its crystal clear waters bordered by wild rocks – home to Catalonia’s second oldest lighthouse. Experience beauty, magic and peace amongst an underwater meadow of Posidonia, a protected habitat and refuge for a diverse range of species.

Where the icy blue water enters the coast, a set of coves called Aigua Xelida create a spectacular scene, a maritime canyon in which L'Hermos lived, a character from El Viatge frustrat (The Frustrated Journey, 1966) by Josep Pla. The location also delights visitors with its secret sea caves such as the d’en Gispert and neighbouring Cala Marquesa, a fascinating and little-explored space surrounded by cliffs that can only be reached by sea. During your trip discover local fishing village Begur – just a 15-minute drive away – which you’ll almost definitely fall in love with, as did legendary flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya.

Situated between Platja d’Aro and Palamós, at the bottom of a long flight of stairs, Cala de la Roca del Paller showcases the characteristic rocky forest of the Costa Brava. And these rocks, resembling a haystack, give the beach its name – paller meaning haystack in Catalan. Nature sprawls the landscape and stones sit on the floor of the sea, so make sure to wear something on your feet when entering the water. Adjoining cove Les Roques Planes is home to majestic flat rocks, contrasting its neighbouring Cala de la Roca del Paller. These idyllic landscapes have delighted lords, actresses, aristocrats and writers since the late 1920s. And years later, around this area, Truman Capote wrote the magnificent In Cold Blood (A Sangre Fría, 1965).

The beautiful coves of walled town Tossa de Mar are captured in Manuel Vilà’s poem Tossa. Among the coves mentioned is the Cala Futadera, also known as the cove of 300 steps. Due to its orientation, the shade reaches the sand early, meaning visiting this unique cove requires an early start, which is well worth the effort once you lay eyes on its natural beauty. To get a close-up of the cove’s crystal clear waters, take a trip out by boat. Like white brushstrokes in the middle of the sea, the boats anchor on the coast of this cove dyed blue during the day and ochre in the twilight.

Built in 1927 by the Woevodskys, the prodigious Cap Roig de Palafrugell Gardens lead the way to a series of breath-taking coves. Our favourite cove, just a 30-minute walk from the gardens and Playa Es Castell, is Cala Estreta. During your journey, soak up the unique landscape along the Camino de Ronda and discover La Barraca de Dalí – a cabin built for Dalí himself by Catalan magnate Alberto Puig Palau. Upon reaching the cove, its rocky outcrop – known as 'the red one' – and its structure – in which you can spot ‘stone dragons’ – will captivate you. This beautiful cove can also be reached from Cala Corbs by kayak.