Madrid’s top 10 spots for sipping a glass of wine
Hospitality expert Alejandra Ansón shares her favourite places to sample Madrid’s most delicious wines, from the wineries to visit to the bars to socialise in.
By Las Rozas Village
“There’s nothing I enjoy more in life than the perfect union of a good bottle of wine, a friendly chat and something delicious to eat,” says hospitality expert Alejandra Ansón (@alejandraanson).
Entrepreneur Alejandra has made food and wine her passion and her profession, founding the hospitality consultancy Ansón & Bonet, with her partner Miguel Bonet, in 2016.
“Of course there are restaurants, bars and shops stocked with impressive wines, but the most exciting places to go are the unknown wine producers throughout the community of Madrid. And that’s what this route is about: those living for the wine.”
A journey through the best wineries
There are 99 denominations of origin in Spain and more than 51 wineries across Madrid alone – with many of them still relatively unknown. This route will take you through some of the best hidden treasures, across four distinct territories, so you can discover what makes each wine unique.
San Martín de Valdeiglesias
The town of San Martín de Valdeiglesias, sitting in the western side of the community of Madrid, has a long history of winemaking. In centuries past their wines were supplied to court and are referenced in texts by Cervantes, Lope de Vega and Francisco de Rojas. And it’s no wonder why – the town’s vines (both the red Garnacha variety and white Albillo Real grapes) are grown by water from the Alberche River and sit in lush agricultural land, such as that by the Castle of Coracera and the Parish Church of San Martín de Tours.
The first stop is at the ValleYglesias winery, a family-run place currently owned by two brothers that produces authentic Spanish wines. Next is Las Moradas de San Martín, where each bottle reflects the union of land, history and literature. 'Las Moradas' takes its name from the last book by Santa Teresa, and its bottles feature extracts from contemporary writers (just as important writers from the Golden Age were featured).
Licinia Wines. Morata de Tajuña
Within the municipality of Arganda is Morata de Tajuña, known as the ‘huerta de Madrid’, where the Tajuña River runs. It’s there that we find Licinia Wines, which was one of the first wineries in Madrid that Alejandra discovered, and is known for its modern bottle labels – “it was time when those different labels were still surprising,” she adds.
The winery belongs to Víctor Algora, a passionate winemaker who embarked on an adventure to create wines in his hometown of Morata de Tajuña. It’s this passion that makes a visit well worthwhile, but also the beautiful surroundings and vineyards – and you can even learn how to make your own wine.
Hotel Wellington
Madrid’s great wineries aren’t limited to the surrounding countryside either. In the capital sits one of the largest urban gardens in the world, growing on the roof of the Wellington Hotel. There, 45 square metres of vines produce delicious wine that’s used in the hotel’s Las Raíces del Wellington restaurant. Guests can even design their own menu to enjoy with wine pairings and a spectacular view of Madrid.
The hotel building is an emblem within Madrid and has seen much of the city’s history play out through its rooms – with artists such as Gene Kelly, Ernest Hemingway, Adrien Brody and Matt Damon having visited.
Colmenar de Oreja
Winemaking methods in the town Colmenar de Oreja come from afar. From the untraditional jars the wine is stored in to the caves used as pantries, these methods result in intensely flavoured wine that’s totally unique.
At Pedro Garcia wineries and vineyards, there are more than 50 hectares of vines, clay-like territory and manual harvesting methods. Plus, wine is stored in caves that date from the seventeenth century. It is meticulous craftsmanship combined with modern technologies.
From the vineyard to the table: where to buy and taste the best wines
Cuenllas
An institution that’s been standing since 1939, Cuenllas, in the heart of the Argüelles neighbourhood, is a family-run grocery store that stocks the best of the country’s produce, cheeses and cold meats. But since Fernando Cuenllas – part of the family’s third generation – took over, it’s also developed into a tapas bar serving delicacies such as scrambled eggs and eel.
"Fernando is a student of this world – he knows more about wines that most people I know,” says Alejandra. Soon you’ll also be able to enjoy the same Cuenllas quality in Calle Orellana, where a new branch, Cuenllas Salesas, is opening soon.
La Fisna Vinos
There are few neighbourhoods that are as unique as Lavapiés: both traditional and modern, with multiculturalism at its heart. There, narrow, steep streets seem to take you back in time to an older Madrid. In the centre of the neighbourhood is La Fisna Vinos Delia, where true hospitality awaits.
From this small bar, the owner conveys such a passion for wine. Simple décor, in the form of a few high tables, a beautiful stainless steel bar and almost bare walls, lets the wine do the talking. Even the menu – simple dishes and quality produce – is crafted to complement the wine.
At the rear of the bar is a store where you can buy some of Madrid’s most magnificent wines to enjoy at home.
Bendito Vinos y Vinilos
A few blocks from La Fisna Vinos is more delicious wine, this time at Bendito Vinos y Vinilos. “For me, this place always means a glass of wine in one hand and a serving of jerky in the other,” admits Alejandra. This small stall is in the San Fernando de Lavapiés Market and serves natural wines, chosen with care and enthusiasm by owner José.
His second project, La Cruda, which is larger and with a kitchen, is another must-visit on any tour of Madrid.
Taberna Casa Maravillas
To experience traditional Madrid, head to Casa Maravillas, a tavern in Barrio de Salamanca. From its walls and tables to the 200-year-old floors, this place has managed to retain the age-old atmosphere of the city, while its service is typically efficient.
The menu is equally as classic at Casa Maravillas, with stew one of its star dishes. All that’s left to decide is which wine is the best accompaniment!
Tierra Vinoteca
As you walk towards the well-known Mercado de la Paz marketplace, down Ayala street in the Salamanca district, you’ll come across another small wine bar – the final stop in our wine tour of Madrid.
Tierra Vinoteca is a passion project from Xavier Saludes, a sommelier with a presence in Madrid (his first premises was in the central Ronda de Segovia district). With this bar-cum-store, Tierra is keen to introduce customers to his favourite wines and he’s full of excellent wine recommendations, which you can either buy and take home or enjoy from one of the handful of seats as you watch life go by.
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