THE CHRISTMAS TABLE

For me, Christmas begins with a ritual that has remained unchanged for many years. On the first of December, the house dresses up for the season, starting with light: I make room for a few extra candlesticks, take out the golden votives from the living room cabinet and scatter them wherever there’s space. I adjust the lighting to create the right atmosphere. And, most importantly, I change the scent of the home, lighting candles that smell of pine and cinnamon, with a hint of clove—the fragrance of my house at Christmas. The kitchen embraces the festive spirit and starts baking fragrant cookies, while here and there red ribbons and little details appear to remind everyone that this is a special time. But what truly makes the difference is the music: Christmas songs accompany every moment of my day.

At Christmas, the table takes center stage: learn the art of setting it and make it unique and special with personal decorations. Table setting follows timeless rules, and while the festive season allows for more lavish embellishment, defining the table’s style—integrating it into the room’s overall design and matching its colors to the surroundings—is the first step to getting it right. In a minimalist dining room, an overly ornate table with baroque tones would feel out of place. Likewise, in a very classic dining room, the setting can afford a few extra important details. An elegant table begins with the quality of the chosen pieces and their arrangement. And to avoid mistakes—don’t forget the undercloth. It not only protects the table but also adds padding that makes the tablecloth look better and softens the clatter of plates.

How to Choose and Use the Tablecloth

On a formal table, the tablecloth should preferably be in a solid colour. If it features decorations, they should be embroidered or woven—not printed. Napkins must be coordinated, generously sized, and folded into a rectangle, placed to the left of the plate. Linen tablecloths are the most elegant, and today you can even find versions trimmed with velvet—perfect for the festive season. Whatever the choice, make sure to iron it thoroughly, finishing the job on the table itself, over the undercloth, to remove any “wardrobe creases.” If you have a lace tablecloth or one with crochet details, place a contrasting solid-colour cloth underneath to highlight the design. When setting the table at home, avoid a floor-length drop; opt for a more practical fall. Allow about 25 cm per side for a standard drop and up to 50 cm per side for a more refined, elegant look.

On an elegant table, charger plates are a must. They don’t need to be silver, nor do they have to match the porcelain dinnerware: they can be glass, alpaca, or even high-quality acrylic—provided they are tasteful and coordinated with the plate set. The charger should be placed about 2.5 cm from the edge of the table and defines the individual place setting. Always position a flat plate on top of the charger (a soup plate should never be placed directly on it). Another plate may be added only if the first course (starter) is served on a platter. If the starter arrives already plated, leave the flat plate empty and ready to receive it.

To the right of the charger go the knives (with the blade facing inward) and the spoons; to the left, the forks. If oysters are on the menu (you never know), remember that the oyster fork is the only one placed on the right. Cutlery should be arranged so that each piece is used in sequence, starting from the outside and moving inward. Place one utensil for each course, aligned at the base.

How many glasses are allowed? There’s no strict rule, but common sense says: no more than three—any more becomes cumbersome. A tumbler for water, a glass for red wine, and one for white wine. If you’re serving only one wine, two glasses will suffice. And the flute? It doesn’t belong on the table—sparkling wine should be reserved for toasts.

Glasses are arranged at the top right, above the knives, in a neat cluster: the water tumbler in front, with the wine glasses behind.

For the Christmas table, it’s best to include a bread plate. It should be placed at the top left, above the cutlery. Usually, it matches the charger or the dinnerware set. If butter is served, place the butter knife on the plate with the blade facing the plate.

Remember: bread is traditionally served with the second course, not the first. Ideally, choose a starter that doesn’t require bread—this will help guests appreciate the meal even more.

The bread can be placed directly on the plate or brought to the table in a basket (without tongs). The hosts do not serve the bread as in a restaurant; guests pass the basket and help themselves, taking only the piece they choose—without hesitation.

How should the table look when guests sit down? It should be fully set with all decorative elements (which should never be removed) and, for dinner, with candles lit. At lunch, candles are never used—and under no circumstances should unlit candles be placed on the table.

If the table is large enough, arrange the candles in one or two candelabra or in single stem holders. Choosing different heights will create a more dramatic, scenic effect.

The centerpiece has seen countless reinterpretations in recent years, but on a formal table it is always welcome—provided it is low (so as not to obstruct the view) and unscented (so it doesn’t compete with the food). How to choose it? Fresh is always best, and a scattered arrangement—using several small vases—is easier to create and often more beautiful.

Place cards can also add a touch of verticality: classic golden or silver metal figurines with a slot for the card are always elegant, but you can be more original by tying the card with a small ribbon to a silver or porcelain object.

A special mention goes to condiments and sauces. Christmas is the perfect occasion to bring out antique ménagères and sauce boats in silver or porcelain. These should be placed on the table when the second course is served and removed at the end of that course.